Post 5 - Overnight Hike to the Trifthutte SAC

The Takeaways:

• The Trifthutte, a Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) hut, is perched next to tumbling glaciers at 2,520 meters (8,267 ft).

• Sadly, the hut was severely damaged in an avalanche in January 2021 and is now closed. The trail to the hut is no longer maintained or secured.

• Prior to 2021, the trail to the hut featured a suspension bridge, ladders, stream crossings, and exposed passages. It was best suited for experienced, fit, and sure-footed hikers.

• The hike and hut both get a 10/10 rating. In fact, this might be one of my favorite hikes ever.

• Until the Trifthutte is rebuilt, I highly recommend the first part of this hike to the Windegghutte and Triftbrucke.

• For more of my Swiss hiking trips and pictures, check out @HikingSchweiz on Twitter.

On a sunny Friday several years ago, a buddy and I hit the road for an overnight hiking trip to the Trfithutte. Located in the Bernese Oberland to the west of the Sustenpass, the hut was originally built in 1864. It was the second SAC hut, and the first with a permanent roof. I guess the first SAC hut had a temporary roof (or no roof?), kind of unclear. Subsequent additions have modernized the hut and made it a popular overnight destination. But we didn’t pick this hut for its history or comfort - it was selected for the challenging trail to the hut featuring a suspension bridge, ladders, stream crossings, and exposed passages. Fun!

After crossing the Sustenpass, we parked at the tiny hamlet of Schwendeli (1,020 m) - basically a couple of buildings nestled in a hairpin turn in the road. We bought tickets for the Triftbahn cable car to save ourselves 1.5 hours and ~300 meters of hiking. The cable car was originally used as a freight gondola by the local power company, but now it mostly carries hikers. Pro tip: this cable car requires reservations in advance; if you just show up like we did, you risk a long wait for an open spot. More info here: https://www.grimselwelt.ch/en/railways/triftbahn/. After a 10-minute ride over a deep gorge and the Triftwasser river, we arrived at the upper station and started our hike.

The trail from the upper station (1,357 m) to our first stop at the Windegghutte (1,887 m) followed the Trfitwasser river, slowly gaining altitude until we reached the hut 1.5 hours later. This portion of the hike was grade T2, well-marked with white-red-white blazes, and safe enough for families and beginner hikers. We stopped at the hut for a drink and a snack on the sunny terrace. We would have liked to linger here, as the hut was super charming and the food was excellent. This hut is known for its cuisine and our snack made me want to stay for dinner. Highly recommended. More info about the hut can be found here: https://www.windegghuette.ch/

From the hut, we hiked up a short incline, and then downclimbed a rocky section secured with chains to the Trfitbrucke (1,761 m). Built in 2004 and replaced in 2009, the Triftbrucke is a pedestrian suspension bridge modeled after a Nepalese high-wire bridge. It was originally constructed after the glacier receded, leaving a deep gorge and lake behind. The bridge is one of the highest and longest in the Alps, with a span of 170 meters (560 ft) and a height of 100 meters (330 ft). Most people hike to the bridge, snap some pics from the middle, and then head home. But we were only done with a third of our hike at this point. More info about the bridge can be found here: https://www.myswitzerland.com/en-us/experiences/route/trift-bridge-a-spectacular-pedestrian-bridge/

From the bridge, we left most of the other hikers behind (except for a hardcore family with a dad hiking shirtless and in Teva sandals - props to that dude). The trail to the hut was marked with white-blue-white blazes (grade T4). For more info on the SAC alpine hiking grade scale, see my previous post here: https://hikingswitzerland.beehiiv.com/p/quick-post-hiking-tips. At this point, the trail became more interesting with two 10-meter ladders fixed to the rocks to help us navigate a couple of tricky sections.

The next exciting challenge was a series of three stream crossings. A few of the crossings were made easier due to the addition of narrow metal planks laid over the rocks, so we we managed to cross each of the streams without soaking ourselves. Fortunately for us, it hadn’t rained recently and the water level was pretty low. However, we had heard stories of rainstorms causing these streams to quickly rise, making this part of the hike very hairy. If we encountered swollen streams, we were advised to find a huge rock (at least 40 pounds), look for a promising spot to cross, and heave it in. The idea here is that if the rock stayed in place, you could (safely?) step next to the rock with a low likelihood of getting swept off your feet and carried downstream. But if the rock was immediately carried away by the current, you had to try again in a different spot. Yikes, a little sketchy for sure. Or you could just turnaround - probably a better idea. But fortunately not an issue for us, so we pressed on.

Past the streams, the trail became much more exposed. This part required a bit of care, especially because the trail was uneven and slippery in certain spots, and the drop-offs were extreme. We were happy that this section was secured with chains and cables. Although that one hardcore family cruised through without an issue, I don’t think I would want to bring young kids or beginner hikers here. But for us, the trail was great fun. As we gained altitude, the Triftgletscher came into close view and we occasionally heard chunks of ice breaking off. The falling ice sounded like gunshots echoing across the valley as it crashed into the lower parts of the glacier. Also, the wind blowing across the glacier was like nature’s air conditioning - nice.

Once past these various challenges, the hike turned relaxing again, with some fun rock scrambling sections below the hut. After about 4 hours of hiking, we reached the Trifthutte. The front of the hut is the older section constructed in 1947 from the local stone, while the rear of the hut was built more recently in 2007.

Upon arriving at the hut, we were greeted with complementary glasses of homemade alpine tea and the option of getting a foot massage! We accepted the tea but passed on the massage, saving the masseuse from our stinky feet. The best thing about the SAC hut system is that many huts, including the Trifthutte, are serviced by helicopter. This means that even in remote locations, the huts can offer delicious fresh food to its guests. Considering the expense of helicopter deliveries, the cost to stay overnight at a SAC hut is very reasonable and includes a bunk in a shared bedroom, dinner, and breakfast. In my experience, the food at SAC huts is excellent and each hut offers a surprisingly wide selection of hot and cold beverages. SAC huts also supply hikers with slippers or Crocs so hikers can kick off their boots and give their feet a break.

While we waited for dinner, we checked out the area around the hut in our stylish Crocs and admired the sick views. The thoughtful hut wardens even installed a porch swing on a stand - so relaxing that I almost fell asleep. More info about the Trifthutte can be found here: https://www.trifthuette.ch/

After a delicious dinner and some drinks, we hung out and played cards with the other hikers. This hut had what a German speaker would describe as Gemutlichkeit - a feeling of warmth, friendliness, and good cheer. We eventually hit the sack, and as usual, I slept terribly. Those who have read my prior posts know that my former habit of consuming several after dinner coffee drinks, combined with communal sleeping arrangements, produced less than optimal sleep. Oh well. After a delicious breakfast the next morning, we packed up our gear, handed back our cool Crocs, and retraced our steps back down the trail.

Unfortunately, in January 2021, the hut was severely damaged by an avalanche, with a portion completely destroyed. Since then, the hut has been closed to visitors and the trail is no longer maintained or secured. Plans are in the works to rebuild the hut, but there is no firm timeline for the reconstruction project. Pictures of the avalanche damage can be seen in this article: https://www.jungfrauzeitung.ch/artikel/188022/

The challenging trail, amazing hut, and good company made this one of my favorite hikes ever - a true 10/10. It was sad to learn the hut was damaged and is now closed; hopefully the Swiss Alpine Club is able to rebuild the hut so others can enjoy this superb trek and alpine location. Once the hut is rebuilt and the trail reopened, I recommend this trip to any fit, experienced hiker seeking an adventure. In the meantime, I highly recommend the excellent first half of the hike to the Windegghutte and Triftbrucke.

STANDARD SAFETY DISCLAIMER - As with any hike, it is important to consider your personal skill level and gear, including safety items, and remember to check the weather forecast. For safety items, consider bringing cash and a credit card, a cell phone, a small headlamp, foul/cold weather gear, an emergency blanket and whistle, plenty of food and especially water, a knife, sunscreen, and a first aid kit. You may never need most of these items, but you will be happy to have them if you do!! For weather, I recommend the MeteoSwiss app. Finally, prior to any tour to a SAC hut, you can also consider calling ahead to the hut warden to ask for info on hiking conditions. A little planning goes a long way towards making your trip a successful one.

One final note on safety - it is important to be honest with yourself and those in your group when it comes to your experience, fitness level, and the conditions. Hiking is not like going to Disney World - it has real risks. Don’t bite off more than you can chew. Everyone has to assess and assume the risks for themselves. I also recommend becoming a Rega patron if you hike in Switzerland. Rega provides emergency medical rescue services if at all possible for a small annual donation. Rega can be reached by dialing 1414 or via the Rega app. More info on Rega can be found here: https://www.rega.ch/en/

Happy hiking!

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